Denali, Ouray, Training and Gear

Well, Richard let me know this week that Oregon Mountain Community had a great deal on 2010 Outdoor Research Alti-Mitts… Therefore, $138 is a lot cheaper than $199. So, mittens are now taken care of for June 2012’s Denali climb. I’ll be blogging about prep all through the season… and posting gear.

I have other gear options I’m interested in – including the MSR XGK EX stove, and potentially an efficient pot for the stove… I have lots of other purchases that will probably occur before Denali. I’m going to get some 40-Below Overboots, work on my glove systems a little more, some merino wool to prevent stinky base layer, a solar charger for electronic devices, etc. As I gather purchases, I’ll post here – and then hopefully review after the fact.

Current Training – Ouray, then Denali

For training, I’ve been taking the A-Team class at Vertical World. The full training is way beyond my fitness level – like Crossfit for Climbing (not in the way the program is laid out, for the amount of pain you experience). Anyhow, so far, the class has been fantastic. I went in barely able to climb VB-V0 bouldering routes and now I’m up to V3 – and I went in just barely able to TR 5.9 and now I think I could probably top out around 5.10c (although still at the 5.10a level consistently).

The A-Team program is this:

• Cardio (or ART) which is generally traversing for extended periods 3 times per workout with rests and/or Top Roping up/down climbing for 20 minutes continuously.
• Bouldering practice – 16 routes at a stable level (V1 the entire time), 16 routes increasing decreasing – therefore you climb like V0, V1, V2, V3, V3, V2, V1, V0 – 2-5 minute rests between.
• Power Endurance – Rambos (TR Up hard route, down easier route, Up hard route, lower x4), 4x4’s – Boulder problem, 4 times in a row – take break, complete 4 rounds of this, NINE BY NINES – This is TORTURE, 4 boulder problems over nine minutes without coming off between – complete boulder problem at 0 min, rest on the wall, another at 3 min, rest on wall, another at 6 min, rest on wall, another at 9 minutes, come off – rest for 9 minutes, do a total of 4 rounds of this.

All of this is in prep for Ice Climbing in Ouray. I’ll be attending the festival and then sticking around for International Mountain Guides Veteran’s program. I’m looking to maybe get on some multi-pitch routes, learn how to lead and how to climb steeper ice (WI4-5). Hopefully, I won’t be burned out by then.

Denali Training

I’m officially starting my Denali training on January 16th. I have a program from Climbing: Training for Peak Performance. There’s a good training program in there in regards to high altitude – that’s my goal. I’ve been to 19,347 ft. But that was at the equator in Ecuador. So, not only do I need some skills practice for Denali but I’m hoping to get my cardio to accept the altitude better. I’ll likely mix this with Ginkgo Biloba.

High Mountain Expedition: Four Months Prep...

Mountain Expedition: Four Months The lack of oxygen turns the big peaks—Denali, Aconcagua, the eight-thousanders—into a struggle against time. Most climbers have a very limited window of opportunity when logistics, weather, and health all come together for a summit bid. Although the climbing usually isn’t very technical, it is always physically demanding and often very exposed. Obviously, aerobic and muscular endurance are essential for high-altitude climbing. But you also want big, strong muscles when you head in, partly because physical strength is useful up there and partly because your muscles may wither. For this type of climbing, you must be prepared to work hard day after day when the weather is good. Since summit snow slopes seem to last forever, it takes mental stamina to tough them out. Those long, sweaty hours of training will reward you at the top—even more so when you make it down in one piece.

ST = Strength training: 1-1.5 hours of resistance exercises in the gym.

FH = Finger hangs: 10-15 minutes of focused training.

CE = Climb endurance: 1-4 hours on long, easy routes, preferably outdoors; this could be termed “active rest.”

CS = Climb strength: 1-1.5 hours of power endurance or power.

AB = Aerobic base: cross-play in Zone 2 (about 70 percent-80 percent MHR).

LT = Endurance or Lactate Threshold intervals/fartleks: Either 4-5 intervals of 8- to 15-minute bouts at moderate intensity followed by 5 minutes of cool down, or 5-6 intervals of 2- to 8-minute bouts at high intensity followed by 4-6 minutes of cool-down.

S/L = Sprint or Lactate Tolerance intervals /fartleks: Either 5-20 intervals of 10- to 30-second full-intensity bursts followed by 3-5 minutes of complete rest, or 5-10 intervals of 1- to 3-minute bouts at near maximum intensity followed by 1 minute of cool-down.

That’s it… more later as I continue my quest for improving my climbing!